Loud Bits Destroy Communication
October 5, 2010 at 9:33 am · Leave a CommentCategories: Bits, Training
Tags: best type of bit, classical dressage bits, classical dressage equipment, correct use of bits, harsh bits, how to choose a bit, loud bits, meredith manor, riding gadgets, ron meredith, severe bits, soft bits, training horses, which bit should I use
Training Mythunderstandings: Loud Bits Destroy Communications
By: Ron Meredith
President, Meredith Manor International Equestrian Centre
A lot of people think you train horses with equipment. This is one of the biggest MythUnderstandings out there. Try this bit, try that bit. If those don’t work, try a thinner bit or one with a longer shank. If those don’t work, tie that sucker’s head down or crank him in with draw reins.
Most people believe that you should start a horse with a really quiet bit, so-to-speak. Then the further along in the horse’s training you go, the bigger the bit you should automatically put in his mouth because it takes a bigger bit for him to understand more. People think that there’s a direct relationship between what a horse knows and what kind of bit is in his mouth. What actually happens is that the horse gets used to the bigger and bigger bits. Eventually, you need the bigger bit because the horse is used to the beating he gets with it every day.
You can either treat your horse with respect and use a bit that is only a small part of an entire corridor of aids or you can force the horse to accept its daily workout in a severe bit that is louder than your legs and seat. If you force the horse to accept a bit that shouts, you cut all the other communication lines that you could have developed using your body position and legs.
When you get the horse so worried about how much bit is going to hit him and how often, you take his mind off a total shape. And to ride a horse accurately and to the degree that will make him a winner you need to create a total shape for each stride using:
- an inside leg at the girth,
- an outside leg a little further back,
- your weight shifted onto a specific seat bone,
- an inside rein positioning the head and softening the jaw,
- an outside rein following the horse’s rhythm,
- your seat either maintaining the cadence of the gait or half-halting to collect the horse.
You must use a full corridor of pressures that the horse feels and understands as a specific shape. The horse will never understand or feel this shape if you don’t understand it. The optimum communication between two individuals must exclude violence and punishment and must be based on both individuals’ feelings and opinions. When you choose a bit to communicate with the horse, your first choice should be one that can never speak louder than your seat and legs.
When someone is trying to communicate primarily with a loud bit, the horse’s primary effort will be to escape the bridle. And when a horse escapes the bridle the rider often tries to tie his head in position with some device so that he can’t get away from the pressure or ruin the leverage. When the bit is louder than the rider’s seat and legs the horse will never even feel the seat or legs. He will only feel the squeeze in his mouth. Whenever you see a horse fighting the bit, he has lost all feeling for the rest of the aids. It is just like getting your finger slammed in a car door.
Gadgets such as tie downs, chambons, draw reins and head sets are only substitutes for the correct use of seat, leg, and rein aids as a corridor of pressures that shape the horse. These training gadgets are molds, not aids. They force the horse’s body into an evasion rather than showing him the correct shape. They are “breaking” devices, not training devices. Breaking is telling the horse what NOT TO DO; training is telling what TO DO. Control does not come from forcing the horse to assume a shape with gadgets. True control over a horse’s gymnastic abilities comes from developing the driving muscles to drive and the carrying muscles to carry.
When you drive hard enough from the back, the front comes off the ground. That is call “rebalancing.” You can’t get collection or rebalancing using tricks. So many people think that technology is having a trick for each thing rather than having a methodical, logical, systematic, gymnastic conditioning program. You only need tricks and gadgets if your skill is limited.
A lot of people believe they are demonstrating riding skill when their horse will tolerate severe equipment. When you ride with a full corridor of aids, you will never need a big bit or any gadgets to put the horse’s head in a position. However, a bigger bit can be used effectively in some situations. For example, if the horse has been carried through his training with a rider who has used the full corridor of aids and the horse understands the rider’s body language and positions, the bigger bit can be introduced and used for upper level games so that all the rider has to do is whisper with the reins. But even an advanced horse can be ridden effectively with a snaffle if it is ridden on a full corridor of aids.
Horses are so sensitive that they can feel a fly land on their skin. They can feel and understand a mild bit if the rider knows how to use it. But you can’t train in shouts and show in whispers. When you put a bit in the horse’s mouth that multiplies your pressures you lose your corridor of aids. The bit becomes louder than your seat and legs and you lose all effectiveness. All attention is on those fingers slammed in the car door.
You don’t train horses with equipment. You train them by developing a communication system that uses a full corridor of aids. You introduce each new concept in a horse logical way in the smallest, tiniest bites you can reduce it to. You introduce it so it is just one step away from something else you and the horse already successfully communicate about. Remember that rhythm, relaxation and repetition are the cornerstones of good training.
© 1997-2010 Meredith Manor International Equestrian Centre. All rights reserved.
Instructor and trainer Ron Meredith has refined his “horse logical” methods for communicating with equines over 40 years as a horse professional. He is president of Meredith Manor International Equestrian Centre (147 Saddle Lane, Waverly, WV 26184; 800.679.2603; www.meredithmanor.edu), an ACCET accredited equestrian educational institution.
Bits & Bridles Article
July 10, 2010 at 1:11 pm · Leave a CommentCategories: Articles, Bits, Bridles
Tags: bitless bridle, Bits, bitting, choosing a bit, classical riding bits, double bridle, double jointed bit, eggbutt snaffle, elevator bit, gag bit, hackamore, jointed bit, loose ring snaffle, pelham, severe bits, snaffle, soft bits, types of bits, which bit should I use
Bits & Bridles
By: Anne Wilson
We are lucky nowadays to have the availability of modern technology in the form of lightweight, smooth and comfortable stainless steel bits, and other modern materials, which need very little cleaning and no polishing. We can take advantage of a huge variety of types and sizes of bits. Of course the bit should always be rinsed clean after every use.
It is definitely an advantage to be able to choose from a wide range of bit widths, lengths, thicknesses and styles, to accommodate any size and shape of equine mouth. Since every horse’s mouth is slightly different, including their dentition and their tongues; this is a huge advantage. As a general rule the thicker the bit, the milder the action, but the bit width and thickness should be in proportion to the size of the horse’s mouth.
However, I believe there can be almost too much choice and certainly too many claims made by specialist bit manufacturers to ‘improve’ the horse’s way of going, ‘improve’ his outline or contact with the bit.
I believe that the path to alleviating problems in the mouth is not by a ‘miracle bit’ but by gentle and tactful use of a well fitting bit which is suitable for that particular horse at a particular point in his training. However, there are some designs of these modern bits which appear to suit some horses who have had problems with conventional bits and this can only be a good thing, but should not be seen as a ‘cure all’.
Here’s a quote from the Great Master Gueriniere in his book ‘School of Horsemanship’, in which he is referring to what the famous horseman Pgnatelli has to say on the subject of bits and bridling – “He was convinced by his own experience that the bridle should serve to make known to the horse the rider’s intentions, rather than to constrain the animal. He said that if bridles by themselves had the miraculous property of establishing the value of a horse’s mouth and rendering it obedient, the rider and the horse would be fully trained on leaving a tack-master’s shop.”
DETRIMENTAL ASPECTS TO SOME MODERN DAY BITS AND BRIDLES
One of the most maddening, not to mention downright cruel, contraptions I see horses wearing today are tight drop nosebands, often referred to as ‘crank nosebands’ because of their ability to be cranked tighter and tighter as the rider wishes. Contrary to classical principles as laid down throughout the centuries by the Great Masters, many riders and trainers today seem to believe that the bit should be held static in the mouth and the horse’s mouth should remain equally static with a tightly closed jaw. The truth is that the horse should be able, and encouraged, to gently ‘chomp’ on the bit or bits. This results in relaxation of the jaw and poll, encouraging a healthy salivation. This gentle ‘chomping’ is quite different from the grinding of teeth which is usually the result of an unhappy horse with an uncomfortable mouth. The idea of the bit being held completely still is contrary to good horsemanship.
THE MAIN SYSTEMS OF BITTING:
The Snaffle
The Double Bridle
The Pelham (a single bit system encompassing both the action of the snaffle and the curb)
The Bitless Bridle
The Gag
THE SNAFFLE
For most horses a simple jointed snaffle or a French link snaffle is a good bit in early training, and sometimes for most of the horse’s life. The choice of size and fit are crucial, and should be chosen by either a professional or a very experienced horse person. As a general guide a jointed snaffle needs to be slightly wider than a solid mouthpiece, because of the joint in the middle. A quarter of an inch protrusion either side of the mouth is correct. The height adjustment is also of vital importance; one wrinkle in the corner of the lips is correct with a snaffle. The bit should sit on the bars of the mouth – that is the part of the gums where there are no teeth. If the bit is adjusted too high it will cause discomfort or pain on the corners of the mouth; if too low it will bang on the teeth also causing pain or discomfort.
In most cases it is down to rider skill. Sometimes, if a horse has been badly ridden, say pulled in the mouth or ridden in draw reins, it will make no difference what bit you put in his mouth; he will still fight the contact. The only thing to do in this case is to use an extremely gentle contact, be very patient and ignore what he is doing with his head and neck; concentrating on working from behind with correct body posture etc. Given enough time, and it may take months or even years, eventually the horse will respond, almost forgetting his previous bad experiences, and come to accept, or hopefully seek, a caring contact with the rider’s hands.
THE PELHAM AND DOUBLE BRIDLE
The Pelham, when used with two reins and correctly fitted, is a perfectly legitimate and useful bit. I disapprove of the use of the Pelham with roundings, joining the two reins together. With roundings the rider holds only one rein, meaning that the action of the curb and the snaffle are used indiscriminately at the same time.
Of course the action of the Pelham even with two reins, can be severe if mis-used, as can even the mildest of snaffles. However, I often find that some heavily built horses actually seem to prefer the use of a Pelham or a double bridle to the feel of the single snaffle. Obviously the rider must be reasonably experienced, possess an independent seat (in order that their hands may act independently, not being subject to unnecessary movement) and be able to utilise the two reins independently.
Similar comments apply to the double bridle as to the Pelham. The use of the double bridle should normally be confined to the more advanced horse and rider. The fitting and effect of each bit and the curb chain are important to understand before embarking upon this system of bitting (either the Pelham or the double). You will find more in-depth information on this in Elwyn Hartley Edwards’ book ‘The Complete Book of Bits and Bitting’ (David & Charles 2004).
THE BITLESS BRIDLE
Bitless bridles come in various designs and depending on the adjustment, can be very severe or very mild. It is a misconception to think that you cannot hurt a horse with a bitless bridle, but they can be very useful for horses who, for some reason, cannot hold a bit in the mouth without discomfort. The reason for the sensitivity in the mouth could be from a dental problem or previous bad riding and/or badly fitting bit. Often the temporary use of a bitless bridle will give the mouth a chance to heal and the horse a chance to regain his confidence before the reintroduction of an appropriate bit.
THE GAG
The gag is part of the snaffle family, but has been altered to exaggerate the action of the bit. They have holes at the top and bottom, through which is passed a cheek piece of rounded leather. The rein is attached to this cheek piece. As you can imagine this results in an acute head raising action and can be very severe. The use of the gag should be confined to very experienced riders and used with great discretion. Even then they should only be used in extreme cases where the horse would be otherwise very dangerous and all other avenues of re-training have failed (and these cases are few and far between).
This article first appeared in Equi-Ads, a free equestrian magazine published in the UK. It is reprinted with permission at Cavalli Connections.
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